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【西部地理】两当灵官峡: 追寻琵琶洲畔的唐宋雅韵

19-08-29 09:49 来源:中国甘肃网-兰州晨报 编辑:刘姗

  原标题:两当灵官峡: 追寻琵琶洲畔的唐宋雅韵

  风光旖旎的灵官峡

  石雕《吴郁直谏》

  陕西凤县灵官峡的宝成铁路文化体验馆

  灵官峡内废弃的铁路

  灵官峡是嘉陵江上游第一道峡谷,也是宝成铁路穿越秦岭的险段之一。上世纪五十年代修建宝成铁路时,作家杜鹏程来此采访,写下了有名的通讯《夜走灵官峡》,经《人民日报》发表,使得它蜚声全国。

  1 登真洞,张果老喂鹿养鹤骑驴游山

  记者在陇南采访,路过两当县,傍晚在县城文化广场纳凉时,看到了一尊《吴郁直谏》的石雕,主人公身着唐朝官员服饰,右手拿笏板,左手平摊,似乎正在向当朝的皇帝慷慨陈词……

  吴郁是谁?当地文友说,吴郁是两当人,唐时担任过侍御史的官职,因犯颜直谏触怒肃宗被贬官去职,他的出生地就在今天的西坡镇三渡水村附近。

  那里也是灵官峡中的风景名胜琵琶崖所在地。

  说到灵官峡,便不得不说作家杜鹏程撰写的通讯《夜走灵官峡》,曾经长时间在中学语文课本里占一席之地。

  “这山峡,天晴的日子,也成天不见太阳;顺着弯曲的运输便道走去,随便你什么时候仰面看,只能看见巴掌大的一块天。眼下,这里,卷着雪片的狂风,把人团团围住,真是寸步难行!……”

  文中展现的是一幅工地雪大、山高、谷深、风狂的场面,是一曲社会主义建设初期的劳动颂歌。六十多年光阴弹指即过,如今宝成铁路在此已然改道,不复有列车呼啸穿行在山林之间,来此的人们更关注的是这里秀美的丹霞地貌:峡谷中的山崖植被葱郁,山体多呈铁红色,嘉陵江水在峡谷中散发着翡翠的光泽,碧水丹崖,让人流连忘返……

  此行我们先去往杨店乡的灵官村。灵官峡里灵官村,它背靠山,传说有“八仙”之一的张果老“成仙”之地——登真洞。

  《孔昌府志》曾有记载:“灵官峡中两山耸秀,一名曰‘南岐’,一名曰‘来仪’(即今凤凰山),南有鸑鷟山‘登真洞’,相传张果老修行登真之处。”

  同为传闻中的“八仙”,《全唐诗》里收录的吕岩吕洞宾的诗作有四卷,张果老的诗作只有《登真洞》诗一首:“修成金骨炼归真,洞锁遗踪不计春。野草漫随青岭秀,闲花长对白云新。风摇翠筱敲寒玉,水激丹砂走素鳞。自是神仙多变异,肯教踪迹掩红尘。”

  老神仙的诗作真的不沾一点烟火气,但诗艺实在平平,反而是诗后附的小传更加有趣:“张果,两当人,先隐中条山,后于鸑鷟山登真洞往来。天后(武则天)召之不起,明皇(唐玄宗)以礼致之,肩舆入宫,擢银青光绿大夫,赐号通玄先生,未几还山。”

  张果老继续喂鹿养鹤,骑驴游山的悠游生涯。

  多年前,记者曾经去探寻过登真洞,深感那里景色凄清幽绝,隔绝红尘。同样留恋故乡风光不愿离去的便是这位吴郁吴御史了,他的故宅就曾建在灵官峡的琵琶崖下。

  2 琵琶洲访友不遇,诗圣仰天浩叹忧国忧民

  西坡镇三渡水村。

  可以看到,琵琶崖临江峭立,在形如刀切的千尺绝壁上,石纹纵横,交错有致。崖壁上镶嵌着一块巨大的悬石,俨然是一张惟妙惟肖的石琵琶。琵琶石上的条条罅隙,在光影中留下印痕,丝丝缕缕,如同绷紧的琴弦,而那山上淙淙流淌的泉溪,不正是它拨动出的乐音吗?

  三渡水村因周边三水汇流的独特地理景观而得名。这里的流域属于嘉陵江,在此地,恰好有支流泰山河和温江寺河同时汇入嘉陵江,形成三水汇流的壮观景象,因为三条河流经地域、地质的差异,导致同一个季节,水温明显不同、水色深浅不一,连水中的鱼儿、水草等也有明显差别,三水所汇的洲地平坦开阔,沙细柔、石奇异,洲形如琵琶,流水汩汩,声幽噎,故名为琵琶洲,自古就有琵琶秋水的美誉。

  吴郁出生于两当县西坡镇三渡水村,康熙版《两当县志》曾说:“吴郁,官御史。先居凤翔,后卜居于两当嘉陵江上,杜少陵题诗云:‘阴风千里来,吹汝江上宅。’”乾隆版的《两当县志》也记载:“吴郁邑人,善书法,字体绵密,不谢当时。官侍御史,以直言被谪,初在凤翔,与杜子美善,子美客秦时,常往来其家。”

  与诗圣成为至交好友,他的风骨和人品能差到哪里去?同朝为官,唐乾元元年六月,杜甫因房琯一案触怒肃宗,交司法审讯,经人营救才幸免一死,而后吴郁也因直谏蒙冤贬职。

  杜甫流寓陇右辗转去蜀,途经两当时特意来探访吴郁,殊不知老友此时已被贬官到长沙去了。

  古时,从徽县境内来琵琶洲,有两条路可走,一条过玉堂山、杏树垭、簸箕湾梁,翻鹌鹑岭到两当,然后翻越祖师山,过灵官殿、故道川、到马灵官峡,沿江而下,到达琵琶洲,此路长;另一条翻越蜀道险要之地青泥岭,沿东北而上,来到嘉陵江和永宁河汇合的合河口,再沿嘉陵江而上,至琵琶洲,此路为捷径。

  后人分析,如果杜甫要到琵琶洲探访老友,最大的可能就是翻青泥岭之路,因为这里和两当县琵琶洲靠近。

  看到吴郁故宅人去屋空,杜甫便写下《两当县吴十侍御江上宅》,诗中满含对朋友的深挚情谊,而且无处不在反映着诗人的忧国忧民思想。从此两当的各版志书上,专为伟大诗人杜甫留下了一席之地。

  3 《雪夜感旧》,陆放翁怀念激情燃烧的岁月

  灵官峡的走向可分两条:一条是跨过两当桥向西南延伸,直至琵琶崖,全长10多公里,本段全在两当县境内;另一条在陕西凤县境内,从峡口向西,经过关底下村二组,蜿蜒曲折至两当桥,向东北沿红崖河延伸,至关底下村下边的石拱桥而出峡,全长也是10余公里。

  在灵官峡,还有一位爱国诗人留下了他的人生履迹,他就是陆游。史书记载乾道八年(1172)初,陆游入四川宣抚使王炎幕府,投身军旅生活。陆游在汉中时,常身着戎装,曾有雪中刺虎的壮举。

  在幕府任职期间,陆游时常穿铠甲、跨战马、手执长剑,“往者秦蜀间,慷慨事征戍”;西出散关、东出骆谷(今周至县西南)巡营瞭哨、探查边关:“朝看十万阅兵罢,暮驰三百巡边行”;夜探关中、收集情报:“结客渔阳时遣简,踏营渭北夜衔枚”;在关中抚慰大宋子民:“ 关辅遗民意可伤,蜡封三寸绢书黄。亦知虏法如秦酷,列圣深恩不忍忘”;诗人还在诗中记录了一次和金兵之间遭遇战:“我昔从戎清渭侧,散关嵯峨下临贼。”

  宋宁宗庆元三年冬,73岁的陆游闲居越州山阴(今浙江绍兴)时,夜晚对着雪洒昏灯的景象,写下了《雪夜感旧》这首诗:

  “江月亭前桦烛香,龙门阁上驮声长。乱山古驿经三折,小市孤城宿两当。晚岁犹思事鞍马,当时那信老耕桑?绿沉金锁俱尘委,雪洒寒灯泪数行。”

  “乱山古驿经三折,小市孤城宿两当。”两当,即指今两当县。诗人曾经过那乱山中的古驿三折,还投宿于孤城小县两当。

  除了夜宿两当驿,他还住过“黄花驿”。陆游《新菊·已过重阳十日期》一诗云:已过重阳十日期,菊丛初破两三枝。自怜短鬓萧萧白,不似黄花驿里时。

  诗人在这首诗中加有“黄花驿在岐凤间,予尝过之”的注释。由此可以推论,陆游从当时的凤州(今凤县境内),往来它的属县两当时,必然要途经灵官峡。

  文/图 记者 刘小雷

版权声明:凡注有稿件来源为“中国甘肃网”的稿件,均为中国甘肃网版权稿件,转载必须注明来源为“中国甘肃网”。

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